Travel Light, Take a Class; Part III Onigawara Ceramics in Higashiyama, Kyoto
On another day with perfect weather, I took a class on how to make ceramic Onigawara; ornamental representations of the Japanese Ogre (its literal meaning translating to “Goblin Tile”). These tiles are meant to hang along the rooftops of homes, shrines, & temples to ward off harmful spirits or energies. The Onigawara are not dissimilar from Gargoyles. Other effigies on Onigawara include animals & flowers. Some iterations include other mystical creatures like the Shishi, the Baku, Phoenixes, or Dragons. These days you are most likely to encounter them on temples. The Nara & Heian Periods are when they were typically decorated with flora & fauna; it was during the Kamakura period where they started adding the ogre’s visage.
This class was taught by Yuya-San, who specializes in these kinds of pieces & others. This studio is not marked by signage & is a nice walk from the train station though I am certain many would recommend taking the bus for a closer drop off point. I had been very lucky to experience beautiful, hot weather most days of the trip & this day was no exception. Thankfully Yuya-San had AC & provided water for his students that day. Clay is one of those mediums I would like to work with more, but would be proportionately difficult to get into at this time because of the logistical costs & lack of space in my studio. I have had minimal luck with air-dry clay for smaller items, & the cost of a legitimate kiln is too much at this time. Even so this class is an excellent entry to the medium for curious artists like myself, & someday I may cave in for a proper set up in my own home studio. Clay is a delight to work with because you can always add back what you subtract from the piece & mistakes are typically technical; creativity is easy going before you broach the subjects of glazing & firing. For this class, you only make your Onigawara out of clay. Yuya-San takes to task the process of glazing & firing your piece to be shipped home later. I am still eagerly awaiting my piece to come home & I will add new photos to this report as soon as I get it!
These classes I have taken on my journey have not only been great learning opportunities as an artist, but an excellent means to meet people as a solo traveler. I have met different travelers from across Europe, Canada, & from the United States; though no others from Vermont like myself. I did not go on many tours myself, the one I took through the highlights of Nara on a beautiful morning tour were also an ample opportunity to meet others & connect on a new level. Viewing the Buddha of Todai-Ji Temple, even in the crowds, was a spiritual bonus. I took this opportunity to practice some meditation.
The local Shinroku, Divine Sika Deer, were delightfully cute & not aggressive; even if they are sacred & they know it. Though the fact that they are still wild should be respected accordingly. These deer are protected & have lived in the area for around 1,300 years; due to their diligent protection these deer in Nara have developed a unique genetic lineage as they have been preserved as a species for so long.
That evening after the class, I walked to an Izakaya a block away from my hotel & had a delicious bowl of Oxtail Udon Soup & caught the Hanshin Tigers game on their television to cap off a wonderful day. (Multiple beers, mackerel sashimi, takoyaki, & fried dumplings not pictured).
Thank You for Reading!
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